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1 Broken Twill
A weave in which the twill line is broken by a deviation from a regular step, as in the satin weave. The illustration shows the four-shaft and six-shaft weaves. Other broken twill weaves are: - Coutil, Campball, Cut Checks, Cut Stripes, Chevron, Arrowhead or Feather, Lorraine, Mayo and Metz Cord (see under each name)
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2 Broken Twill Sateen
This is a cotton fabric in which the five-shaft sateen weave is used, but with the twill line showing faintly and running to the right. The twill line is thus broken, giving a smooth surface. The illustration shows the weave. The weft is spun weft way, which distinguishes this cloth from the French twill, which is twist-way spun weft
Dictionary of the English textile terms > Broken Twill Sateen
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3 Broken Face
A term applied to sateens made so that the weave effect is broken up. The face is broken by using weft-way weft, and having the twill to the right, or using twist-way weft and twill to left. -
4 Broken Crow Twill
The four-shaft sateen (see Crow Foot) -
5 Broken Sateen
The sateen weave with the twill reversed. -
6 ломаная саржа
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7 ломаная саржа
1) Engineering: broken twill (http://www.handweaving.net/GalleryDetail.aspx?GalleryItemID=5) -
8 обратная саржа
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9 сложная саржа
1) Engineering: broken twill -
10 сбитая саржа
Engineering: broken twill -
11 Metz Cord
A fine worsted dress cloth woven in a broken twill weave. The cloth is weft face and has nearly twice as many picks as there are ends, such as 80 ends and 140 picks and 72 ends and 120 picks per inch, cotton warp and 56's botany weft. The weave gives a fine face cord effect.
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12 Satin Turc
An all-silk fabric similar to a satin crepe, but woven 4-end broken twill weave. The making details are 45-in. cloth to give 39/40-in. finished, fine silk warp and crepe silk weft about 26 denier, 300 ends and 100 picks per inch. Made in many other qualities with proportionate ends and picks, and yarns about 20 denier to 40 denier. -
13 Frieze
A heavy woollen fabric with a rough, irregular nap, and a more or less hard feel. Originally an Irish production; generally grey in colour, and used for the lower-grade clothing. Also made from a mixture of wool and shoddy or mungo. Woven 2 & 2 twill with about 40 ends and 60 picks per inch, 20's skein Yorkshire woollen warp and weft. The weave is sometimes the broken 2 & 2 twill. Frieze was first mentioned in 1399 as a coarse woollen cloth and made in Coventry. It was much used by the people in the 16th century for doublets, jerkins and gowns. -
14 Crow-Foot Weave
The four end broken sateen weave shown at A under Crow twill. -
15 Lined Work
A twill effect made by a combination of broken diamond twills such as the birds' eye. -
16 Satinet Weave
This weave is commonly used for the satinet cloth and also as a ground weave for figured cloths. It is a 4-end broken warp twill.
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17 Soleil
A French name attached to shiny materials, such as are largely used in the millinery trade, and satin soleil for dresswear. Also applied to a very highly-finished all-wool fabric woven in a warp twill in broken-rib effect.
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